If you're interested in history, culture, and traveling, this journey will take you to some of the most fascinating Umayyad sites in Jordan. From desert castles to hilltop palaces, the country offers many well-preserved places where you can explore Islamic heritage. For French tourists in Jordan, the easiest way to reach these remote sites is by renting a car in Jordan. You will have the freedom to explore each site at your own pace, without waiting for a group tour or public bus.
Most desert castles and remote ruins are not reachable by bus, and taxis can get expensive. French tourists in Jordan can create a flexible travel plan, stop at scenic views, and visit each location. Car rentals are available at Queen Alia International Airport and many downtown locations in Amman. Make sure to check what is included in your rental contract. Most cars come with basic insurance, but you may want to ask for full coverage.
To rent a car, you need a valid driver’s license and passport. A French or EU license is usually accepted. You must also be at least 21 years old, although some companies require the driver to be 25 or older. Automatic and manual cars are available, but if you're not used to driving in busy city traffic, choose an automatic to make your trip easier.
Umayyad sites in Jordan are spread out across the country. So if you want to see several sites, you will need to travel across different regions by car. Here are three reasons that make it worth it:
You will find Qasr Amra, Qasr Kharana, and Qasr al-Mushatta, each built by the Umayyads during the 8th century. These desert castles served different roles. Some were used as hunting lodges, while others functioned as forts or places of rest. The mix of Islamic design, Roman influence, and Byzantine frescoes shows how rich the cultural exchange was during that time. These sites stand in the eastern desert.
Umayyad architecture in Jordan shows the transition from older Roman and Byzantine forms to the first expressions of Islamic stle. This includes geometric decoration, Arabic calligraphy, and a focus on symmetry. In places like Qasr Amra, the wall paintings even show scenes of daily life, hunting, and animals. Visiting these sites helps you understand how Islamic architecture started and how it spread across the Arab world.
In the center of Amman, the Amman Citadel stands at the highest point of the city, about 850 meters above sea level. The citadel is one of the best places for visiting Umayyad architecture in Jordan. The main highlight here is the Umayyad Palace, a large complex that once served as a governor’s residence and administrative office. It was built around 730 AD when Amman was the capital of the al-Balqa district. This complex includes an entrance hall, a colonnaded Roman street, and private residential quarters. You can walk through all of them today. The palace reused older Roman and Byzantine materials, which shows how Umayyad builders worked with what they found.
When you enter the palace, you’ll first see a domed entrance hall. The hall has stucco decorations with geometric and floral designs. Although the dome was added in 1998, the shape of the building is original, built in the form of a cross from an earlier Byzantine church. Not far from here, you will notice a round Umayyad cistern, which could hold more than 1,300 cubic meters of water. This helped supply the palace with drinking water and supported daily life. Some remains of a bathhouse and olive-pressing area can also be found nearby.
Walk along the colonnaded street, which was the palace’s main path. It is lined with columns and surrounded by office and residential buildings. At the end of this street, you will enter a plaza with an iwan, an audience room where the ruler met visitors. Behind it, the cruciform throne room or diwan still stands. From there, private rooms and another small plaza stretch toward the northern edge of the citadel, offering views of the hills beyond Amman.
South of the palace is the Umayyad Mosque, which was likely built between 710 and 740 AD. It reflects how early Islamic architecture started using standard qibla directions. The earliest phase of the mosque had a qibla that faced “Between” directions—something seen in early Umayyad mosques. Later, it was rebuilt to face Mecca, showing a change in religious practice.
The mosque had a square shape, about 30 meters by 30 meters, and stood on a raised platform. This gave it a powerful presence within the citadel. The layout included a central courtyard, surrounded by colonnades, and a southern prayer hall with three aisles. The columns, many of which were taken from older Roman buildings, formed a forest of columns, a stle inspired by Persian apadana halls. Although many parts are in ruins, you can still see the mihrab niche, a special feature that faces Mecca. It projects from the qibla wall, a rare design for mosques of that time.
Even though no mosaic or fresco remains, the mosque’s shape and materials give strong clues about its original form. The use of limestone, ash-based mortar, and re-used Roman columns connects it with nearby Roman and Byzantine sites. These layers show how the Umayyads adapted older stles to create Islamic spaces.
From Amman, a drive of about 1 hour to the northeast brings you to Qasr al-Hallabat. This desert castle is one of the most famous Umayyad sites. Built on top of an old Roman fort, it features square plans, towers, and Greek inscriptions carved on basalt stones. It also has a nearby mosque. Archaeological research shows that local houses here used different stones like limestone and basalt, built directly on bedrock without deep foundations. Most roofs were flat, with water drainage systems and stairways
About 2 km from Qasr al-Hallabat is Hammam al-Sarah, a small but remarkable Umayyad bathhouse. It included a walled garden and a reception hall. This site is a great example of how the Umayyads used architecture for political goals. The bathhouses were placed in remote areas, showing their power and wealth to local leaders and travelers.
Your road trip to Umayyad castles should include Qasr al-Kharana, about a 1-hour drive from Amman. This structure looks like a fortress but was likely used as a meeting place for Umayyad leaders and local tribal heads. Its design is very symmetrical, with fortified walls, small rooms, and courtyards.
Another important site nearby is Qasr al-Mshatta, known for its ornate stone carvings on the facade. Although some of its decorations were moved to a museum in Berlin, you can still see parts of the palace at the original site. It was located close to the Amman airport and was restored in 2013. The palace was built with a focus on luxury and beauty, and it shows how Umayyads combined art with politics.
If you want to understand how people lived in smaller communities, include Tell al-Husn on your route. This place is near Irbid, about 1 hour and 30 minutes from Amman. Excavations here revealed a fortified Umayyad mosque and the remains of a fortress. The name "Husn" means a strong castle, and it was likely one of the towns that grew during the Umayyad time. According to archaeologists, this site may also be connected with the ancient city of Dion, a place known during Roman times.
Another example of rural life is found near Qasr Hallabat, where archaeologists studied what they called a nomad village. These places had scattered homes with basic stone walls and earth floors. Some houses had ovens and small courtyards. Others had stairways to reach the roof or second floors. These simple homes give us a view of how people lived outside the palaces. These were the areas where trade and farming were more important than luxury.
While in Amman, you can stay near downtown to be close to the Citadel. The Amman Pasha Hotel is a popular choice, with a rooftop view of the Roman Theater. If you’re hungry after a long day of exploring, try Hashem Restaurant, one of the city’s oldest and best-known places for hummus and falafel. It’s located near Al-Balad and is open all day and night.
There are no hotels at the desert castles, so you will need to drive back to Amman or stay in nearby towns like Zarqa if visiting Qasr Hallabat. Always check the weather and bring water and sunscreen, especially in the hotter months. Spring and autumn are the best times for this kind of travel. These seasons have mild weather and clear skies, perfect for photography and walking through open-air ruins.
The Umayyad sites in Jordan give travelers a rich picture of early Islamic life from palaces and mosques to bathhouses and forts. As a French tourist in Jordan, you’ll find this road trip both educational and relaxing. You’ll see how different cultures like Roman, Byzantine, Persian, and Islamic came together in the architecture of the 8th century. By driving to these sites, you also get to enjoy the landscapes of northern and eastern Jordan, with desert views and quiet roads.
Final Rentals is a trusted car rental platform in Jordan. We offer easy booking, affordable prices, airport pickups, and a wide range of vehicles from small cars to luxury rides. Drive to each site comfortably and explore Jordan at your own pace.
